For the 2009 end holidays we were looking for destination where we could enjoy both sea and mountains, daytime temperatures at least around 20°C and where we can go without visa or get one on the border. Due to the air ticket prices (during Xmas these really shoot up) we had 2 options - Oman or Jordan. And decided to take Jordan (more interesting sights, lower on the spot-costs...).
We flew from Prague via Frankfurt to Amman, rented a car for 1 week and visited Madaba, Mount Nebo, the Dead Sea, Aqaba and the Red Sea Coast, Petra, Wadi Rum Desert, Karak Castle and last but not least also the Castles in the Eastern Desert.

Countries visited: Jordan
Travelperiod: 12/2009 - 01/2010
Total costs:
490 EUR (air ticket - 1 person), 750 EUR (expenses in Jordan - 2 people for 10 days), 210 EUR (car rental for 1 week)
After an hour long flight from Prague to Frankfurt (everything very overpriced at the airport), more than 5 hours long stop-over and another 4 and half hours of flight, we are landing at 2 o'clock in the morning at the Amman Queen Alia International Airport. Right in the first hall we need to change some cash, because one needs the Jordanian Dinars to buy the visa. The exchange rate was bad - only 0,98 JD for 1 EUR, but no other option. There was already a long queue for the money exchange and even longer one for the visa. All in all it took some 45 minutes of standing in queues, but in the end didn't matter as we had to wait for our luggage another 10 minutes more anyway. Then finally we got out, where the hotel driver was waiting and drove us the 30 kilometres to Madaba (small city south of Amman), which we have chosen as a base for exploring the area around Amman and the Dead Sea.

Mosque in Madaba

Roman Theatre in Amman

We checked in (stayed in Rumman Hotel - recommendable, spacious and clean rooms, very helpful staff, 30 JD per double room including breakfast) and shortly before 4 AM we finally got to bed.
The next day we made a long sleep and only somewhen around 1 PM we forced ourselves to walk to the city centre. On the schedule was mainly visit of St. George's Church, where a 6th century mosaic, which depicts the Holy Land, is placed. From the hotel it was only some 15 minutes walk to there. Along with some Japanese tourists we saw the mosaic, made some further walk around the city centre, found a local bus station, from where buses to Amman leave and took a dinner at one of the restaurants in downtown. On the way back to our hotel we found an exchange with a slightly better rate, so we change some cash.
Second day in the morning we are going to the bus station in Madaba a taking a minibus to Amman Downtown (1 JD for 2 people). We got off a bit too early, so extra 500 metres to be walked. We headed first to see the Roman Theatre, which was built in the 2nd century. From the top was a very nice view around downtown on towards the Citadel - Jebel Al Qala. After that we walked through the downtown to Abdali and giant King Abdullah Mosque. From there we head to King Abdullah Gardens, where car rental agencies should be located. And really, on the spot were found around 20 agencies - the big international ones and local jordanian ones as well. We started first to Hertz, continued with few local ones, visited Thrifty and Avis. Suprisingly the large global rental agnecies had better rates, than the local ones. After some deciding, we ended up with renting Chevrolet Aveo from Avis for 30 JD a day including SCDW, second driver and unlimited mileage. We spent another 30 minutes with filling out all the papers and finally moved to hand-over of the vehicle. Rear tyres nearly patternless, front left window not possible to pull down, only one front headlamp works, reserve tyre nearly empty, no jack and almost empty tank. We at least get the jack and another spare tyre and let's go into the wild traffic of Amman. We first headed to a gas station and tanked full for 0,575 JD a litre. Then followed drive through the city towards south, to Madaba. Later in the evening we go grap some dinner to a nearby restaurant.

The Holy Land

Dead Sea - Amman Beach

We are waking up a bit earlier and right after breakfast we depart towards the Dead Sea. First we get lost a bit in Madaba, but later going the right direction. The road is partially under reconstruction, so it takes a bit more time. We stop at a nice viewpoint, some 10 kilometres ahead of the sea and enjoy a wonderful view around the Holy Land. The road goes further down below the sea level a finally we are there, the lowest point on the Earth. We drive few kilometres to the north along the coast and park the car by the Amman Beach, which is a maybe 200m wide strip of sand, with showers, restaurant and pools. The entrance is hefty - 15 Euro per person, but on the other hand, it's Dead Sea, you don't find it anywhere else in the world (one can of course park the car nearly anywhere, especially in the southern part, and dip in the sea free of charge, but you need to wash yourself after swimming, otherwise you will be whole covered with salt...). So we changed into swimming suits and headed down to the water. It's pretty strange to lay on your back in the water and just relax. Classics would take out newspapers and read, while laying on the water. They also sell the black mud on the beach for 3 Euro per person, so you can salve your whole body with it (or search a bit in the sea and take some mud for free). After some 2 hours we jump back into our car and drive to the north, because we have yet the ruins in Jerash to visit. Unfortunately shortly before Amman, we miss the junction and the highway leads us into the city and we get completely lost because of bad direction signs. We ended up in the east Amman, on highway towards the Eastern Desert and Iraq. So turn it around and head back to Madaba, because there's no time to visit something else on that day.

on the Desert Highway

view towards south from the Rajif Junction

Early in the morning, we pack all our stuff, check out from the hotel and make us on the nearly 400 kilometres long journey to the very south of Jordan, to Aqaba, which lays on the Red Sea coast. First we drive towards Amman, but before reaching it, we get on the Desert Highway and beginning to drive southwards. We pass the airport, the traffic is pretty heavy, but as we get more far from Amman, it leaves just few cars and trucks with us (and the radio station Spin Jordan). Shortly after Qatrana, we make a short stop and then continue further south to Maan, where a detour through the city waits for us. We wanted to take some gas there (in Jordan are sometimes 70 or even more kilometres between 2 gas stations), but they didn't have any, so we have to drive another 65 kilometres and with nearly empty tank we finally stop at gas station at the Wadi Rum junction. In the same time, we decide to drive to Wadi Rum Visitor Centre, which should be some 15 kilometres away the highway and check the prices of the trips into the desert. Following a narrow asphalted road we get there and are immediately being trapped by the hard commercial tourism. A lot of touts asking you if you have a reservation of tour etc. We check the price list - heavy increase compared with prices of 2006, but as we don't have time to take any longer tour today anyway, so jumping back into the car and driving the last maybe 30 kilometres to Aqaba. Yet before we reach the city, we have to stop at customs checkpoint, because Aqaba is a special economic zone. In the city we park car on corniche in downtown and go to grab some lunch/dinner. We find a pretty good restaurant called Syrian Palace (really recommendable) and make our stomaches full for some 12 JD. After that some quick shopping of water and fruit and let's drive some 12 kilometres further to the South Coast area, where we have booked accommodation in Arab Divers Village. We arrive already after sunset and actually taking our chances for a free room, because we are here 1 day ahead of our booking. We got luck, there's a free room for tonight as well. After checking the weather forecast which shows a bit colder weather for next day, so we put the visit of Petra on the plan.

The Siq - entrance to Petra	houses in Petra
The Monastery (El Deir)	2 of us and the Monastery in the back

The Treasury (Al Kazneh)

We make an early wake up at 6:15 AM and in less than half an hour we are on the way to the north to see one of the new seven wonders - Petra. The weather is cloudy and before we reach the Rajif Junction it's even drizzling a little bit a fog everywhere around us. At the junction we turn to the King's Way and driving in a very heavy fog thru the mountains (the road goes here up to 1690m). After in total of nearly 2 hours of driving from Aqaba South Coast we park at the parking lot near entrance to Petra. The entrance is 21 JD (which seemed kind a lot to me, but thinking about it ex post - it's really worth to pay it) per person. Then followed a maybe 1km long path downwards to the beginning Siq, which is a gorge, in some sections only 2 meters wide, leading to the famous Treasury (Al Kazneh). I shouldn't forget to mention, that we were accompanied by ubelievable crowds of tourists (mainly from Spain, Italy and France). We didn't stop much at the Treasury, but immediately headed further along the Theatre and the Royal Tombs and then up the hill to the Monastery (El Deir) with hope, that we will escape the crowds. This plan was successful and we enjoyed the Monastery without the crowds (only few people up there). After short rest we walked yet bit uphill for some nice look outs onto the neighbouring mountains. On the way back down, crowds of people were streaming against us. We followed with sightseeing of the former Petra city centre, Royal Tombs and made a pause at the Treasury again, where the crowds were probably even larger than had been in the morning. At 3 PM we are back at the parking place. Petra is wonderful, interesting place to visit, but because of this, you most likely will have to share your feelings with thousands of others... Then 2 hours of driving back to Aqaba was waiting for us. We grabbed some food in the city and then moved to our hotel.

huge Jordan flag in Aqaba

Tala Bay resort seen from Royal Diving Club

Last day of the year 2009 was reserved for relaxation, sunbathing and snorkeling in the Red Sea. We wanted to have some comfort so headed to the Royal Diving Club, which is only some 3 kilometres ahead the border with Saudi Arabia. The entrance was 10 JD per person, not the cheapest, though. Right some 20 metres away the shore was wonderful coral, with tons of colorful fishes (even saw a lionfish there) and other fauna. Simply wonderful - didn't see so nice corals while snorkeling in Egypt back in 2005. We stayed at the beach till sunset and then drove further to Saudi Arabia Border. We turned it back in Ad Durra (which is actually just a huge oil refinery), only 1 and half kilometre before the customs. But we are making one wrong turn and the road leads us somewhere to the Aqaba Container Port, so we have drive back again and then finally (already in the dark) reach the coastal road, which leads us to our hotel. Later we went to Aqaba for a dinner and a short walk along the coast (with beautiful views towards Eilat in Israel). At 10 PM we are back at hotel, but the whole day laying on a beach made us both so tired, that we fall asleep... When i woke up, it was already 2 minutes after midnight and so the year 2010. But we at least made a bit delayed New Year's cheers!
For the very beginning of 2010 was planned a trip to Wadi Rum. We wanted to stay one more night in the Arab Divers Village, but they are full, so we pack everything and check out. The plan is to return for one more night to Aqaba, but we will have to try another hotel. It took less than an hour to reach Wadi Rum Visitor Centre. Again before i could reach the ticket office we were approached by maybe 5 touts and asked if we have a ticket (how could i have bought one, when i even couldn't reach the ticket office?) and if we have a tour reservation (all very pushy). We wanted to climb the highest mountain in Jordan - Jebel Um Adaami (1832m), which is close to border with Saudi Arabia, but it's quite far and simply not doable today anymore.

view from the top of the Red Sand Dune	Anfaishyya rock inscriptions
on the way to Um Fruth Rock Bridge	Rock Bridge seen from the Rock Bridge
the Um Fruth Rock Bridge	2 of us on the bridge

So we have to take another tour. While waiting in the queue for the tickets, we hear a french couple next to us asking about tours as well. We start to chat and book a tour together as the price is per jeep and up to 6 people fit in there. The tour should last 4 hours and at noon sharp we are departing. First stop was the Red Sand Dune, maybe 50 metres high with a very nice view from the top. Stop number two were ancient Anfaishyya rock inscriptions - shows photo above. The weather was perfect, completely cloudless sky, but while driving on the back of the jeep, it was bit windy so a light jacket was a must. The journey followed further south with stopping at Lawrence's House (after Lawrence of Arabia). The landscape around was fascinating - a wonderful mixture of variously colored sand and interesting rock shapes. Another 10 kilometres to the south we stopped at the Um Fruth Rock Bridge, which can be with some scramble climbed to its top.

last sunrays hit the Seven Pillars of the Wisdom

Camels on the road

As we descended back down our guide told us, that we won't have enought time to climb also to the Burdah Rock Bridge, but that he will take us to see it at least and instead of the climb we will drive through the Barrah Canyon. An extra stop in the desert, where he made a cup of tea for each us was added as well. With the sunset we are back at the visitor centre and can enjoy a wonderful view on the rock called Seven Pillars of Wisdom. In the dark we arrive back to the Aqaba South Coast and find a nice accommodation (rooms completely new, clean for 35 JD including breakfast) just accross the street in Red Sea Dive Hotel.
Next morning to pack everything and journey to the north has to begin. But before, we are stopping at the public beach and taking yet an hour of snorkeling. Then we start the drive, again along the Desert Highway, but in Al Quatrana we turn to Karak, where we want to visit a crusader castle of the same name.

public beach at Aqaba South Coast

Karak Castle

view towards West from Karak

The drive throught the steep roads around Karak took some time, but shortly after 3 PM we are on the spot. Well on time, as they are closing at 4. Again a lot of tourists from Italy and Spain here. The castle was built in 12th century and served during the Crusades. It's significantly less preserved than f.e. the Crac des Chevaliers in Syria. From here we took the way which goes down to the southern tip of the Dead Sea. It was wonderful to watch sunset above the Holy Land. Then followed a drive along the sea, but we saw only the southern part, because the night came. To Madaba we took a steep road going up to Mount Nebo (said, it's the place where prophet Moses saw the Promised Land). Unfortunately tourist police stops us to visit the site, because it's closed (you can visit the cross and monastery, apparently only during daytime), so we drive directly the last few kilometres to Madaba. We head first again to Rumman Hotel, where we stayed at the beginning of our trip. It looks, that they are full, but in the end they found a free room for us.
On our last day we leave our stuff in the hotel and drive to the Eastern desert, where we want to visit some of the Desert Castles, namely Qasr Kharana, Qasr Amra and Qasr Azraq, which is some 100 kilometres eastwards from Amman. First we fight a little bit with the directions through Amman, but later we find the right road leading to the Eastern Desert (just follow signs to Saudi Arabia and Iraq). Don't know how it could happen, but we missed the first castle. It should have been right next to the road, but we didn't see any sign or any building looking as a castle. So our first desert castle was Qasr Amra, which is also on the UNESCO list, mainly thanks to it's wonderful 8th century frescoes. The castle was rather small and from outside not much interesting building, but as you enter inside you get the reward for the drive. After Amra we follow the road further to northeast to Azraq which is nothing more as a junction of roads going to Iraq and Saudi Arabia.

Qasr Amra	frescoes inside the castle

road to Iraq

We make a short visit of the significantly larger Castle Azraq, finally buy some postcards and then start the final drive to Amman. We took a more northern way via Zarqa, but it was in a bad shape, so the drive took longer than expected. Moreover we again made one wrong turn in Amman, which resulted in more than an hour long action drive through the city - simply we were not able to find the right way. At 3PM we are finally arriving to King Abdullah Gardens and returning our car. All went ok, so we just ask on how to get to Madaba. Reportedly we should take cab to northern bus station, which doesn't sound right to me as Madaba is south of Amman, but let's give it a try. So we take a taxi to the bus station and some 20 minutes later we sit in an overpacked (place for 2, shared by 3 people etc.) to Madaba. At 6 PM we are back in the hotel, have some time to relax, finish packing and half an hour before midnight we are taken by car to the airport. Follows some confusion from which terminal our plane to Frankfurt departs - based on reservation it should be 1, but on the spot it turns out to be 2. Then check in, passport and customs check and shortly before 3 AM we take off.
Early in the morning we are in Frankfurt and have to wait for 2 hours for our connecting flight to Prague, which meanwhile got some snowfall.
To sum it up, Jordan has really a lot to offer from ancient sites, over sea and mountains to desert. It's a perfect choice for winter holidays and we can only recommend it. Just be aware, that Jordan is not the cheapest country in the region (price level difference between 2006 and 2009 is really big). The prices in Jordan are approximately the same as in Central Europe countries like Czech Republic or Poland.